Battleship Island

Walking around the crumbling grocery stores and peeking into children’s bedrooms covered with rust and weeds, it’s an eerie glimpse of the imprint of human life on our environment.
Begun as a coal mining operation in 1887, the Mitsubishi Company purchased Hashima Island in 1890. Mitsubishi enhanced the island’s mining facilities while increasing its landmass to 16 acres. It then built concrete, high-storied apartment complexes to house its employees and their families, as well as an outer sea wall. At its peak in 1959, Gunkanjima was home to 5,259 people, making it at one time the most densely populated place ever recorded.

By 1974 the mines under Gunkanjima had dried up and Mitsubishi announced it was ending operations. Residents began departing in haste to seek new jobs. Within a few months, the island was completely deserted.

The early 2000s saw a renewed interest in Gunkanjima, with a number of different companies in Nagasaki vying to offer tours. It’s the only way to access the island and the whole operation is tightly controlled – just three ferry companies are permitted to run tours – with visitors limited to a walking path that makes up part of the island’s perimeter due to safety concerns. Tours take approximately three hours and are offered in morning and afternoon sessions. Typical programs include ferry rides to and from Nagasaki port to the island and one­ hour walking on land.

In July 2015, Gunkanjima became a UNESCO World Heritage site. This was despite complaints made by South Korea, later withdrawn, regarding Mitsubishi’s use of Koreans and Chinese for hard labor on the island during World War II. Tour guides are normally reluctant to address this issue so it’s best not to push it. You can (and should) find out more about the history of Gunkanjima online.

ACCESS
As much as you might want to adventure through the abandoned island at your own pace, travelers must be a part of a tour group to visit Gunkanjima. Reservations are available online. Tour companies require guests sign safety waivers and wear hard hats while on the island.

TOUR PRICES
Ferry tours from Nagasaki range from ¥3,600 to ¥4,200 for adults, with discounts available for groups of 15 members or more. In addition to ferry fees, visitors must also pay a ¥300 landing fee (¥150 for children). This fee is charged by Nagasaki City and goes towards assisting in Gunkanjima’s preservation. It should be noted tours are subject to last minute cancellations if weather and wave conditions prove hazardous. Tour groups may give partial refunds or offer alternatives.